Dremel Message Board / General Dremel Discussions / Dremel Help

Which Dremel is Best?

Laurennnn — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 20:50:42 GMT

I have never owned a dremel before and am unsure as to which one I should try. After reading some reviews, I decided that the 300 series sounded better and sturdier than the 400 series. Now that the 4000 came out, I wonder if I should try it....there hasn't been enough time for reviews to accumulate yet, so I'd be hoping for the best. Has anyone used it? I am going to be using the dremel for sanding, grinding, polishing and drilling metals, primarily sterling silver. I want something that is likely to last. Any input?

Sanding Disc confusion

SPCtools — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:34:36 GMT

I must be missing something. Sanding disc 412 is to be used with the 402 mandrel. How does this combination not cause the mandrel screw to touch the work?

Thanks

How to fix your Dremel 395 if it suddenly stops working, intermittent speed fluctuation, speed stuck, or dead Dremel.

mrmac — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 11:16:16 GMT

Some people asking for assistance on forums never get back with what happened after getting advice or "close the loop" to tell others what the outcome was. I know good people have taken their valuable time to try and help, so I feel it only right and courteous to take some of my time to do the same. Here is my way of giving back to the Dremel forum and community.

Maybe this thread post will help others looking for answers to the problem of a Dremel 395 type 5 suddenly stoping, intermittent speed fluctuation, or speed stuck at some rpm.

Here are a few preliminary steps you should try first to get your Dremel working again:
1- Turn it off and plug it into a known good AND tested electrical outlet. (plug a lamp in or something to see if the outlet works, you might have blown a fuse to the outlet).

2- With compressed air, blow out the inlet and outlet openings on the sides of the Dremel. There may be a buildup of dust or debris inside on the rotor. If you have no air compressor you use a can of compressed air (wal-mart or target has them).

3- Change the motor brushes with new ones. (These can be purchased at hardware stores that seel the Dremel tools and attachments - such as Lowes or Home Depot). To change the motor brushes, use the end of the locking wrench that cam with your Dremel. On the outside of the Dremel you will find two caps with slots for replacing the brushes. Unscrew the caps (but be careful because the springs inside will fly out). When you get the cap off, remove the spring (if it hasn't flown away) and make sure the old brush is still attached to the spring. If not, turn the Dremel to get a little rectangular lead looking piece out. That is the electrical brush for the motor. Follow the directions on the package for the new brushes and insert them correctly. If you don't the motor will not run and may damage the rotor. Make sure the Dremel is not plugged in and give the end (where you put in an attachment) a manual spin to ensure it will turn smoothly. If not you have put the brushes in incorrectly).

Hopefully one or all of those steps will get your Dremel working again. If not, you may want to contact Dremel to have yours repaired or replaced. There is a 5 year warranty on Dremels, and if yours is beyond 5 years from purchase they will repair it for a fee that is much less than having to purchase a new Dremel.

This last option, (if you don't mind voiding your warranty and are handy at fixing things) is to open it up and try to repair it yourself. Keep in mind that Dremel may not work on it for you later if you work on it yourself.

Having said that, infrequently there is a problem with the Dremel 395 which seems to be with the switch contacts over time, getting dirty, buildup of carbon, and dependent on working conditions, dust accumulation inside the Dremel. For those of us that may be having a problem with intermittent operation, stuck on/off switch, sudden stoppage, or dead altogether. Here is how to take the Dremel 395 apart and work on it yourself. I have a 395 type 5 that has worked dependably for me for over 15 years. However, one day it just quit on me suddenly. I followed the 3 preliminary steps mentioned above but they didn't help this time. So it was necessary for me to open it up and investigate. After cleaning the contacts, my dependable little friend is working like a champ again.

Here is how to clean the contacts: First make sure the Dremel is not plugged in (you won't believe how many people forget to do that). Remove the brushes as directed in preliminary step 3 above. To take the case halves apart you will need a #15 torx head screwdriver or bit. If you don't have one and don't want to go get one, a very small head flat tip screwdriver or something else might work. There are 4 torx head screws on the outside of the Dremel 395 hard plastic casing. Lay the Dremel flat on a work surface and unscrew the round plastic collar at the attachment end. You can leave the metal screw lock and collets on. Now unscrew the 4 screws holding the case halves together. But before taking the halves apart, I suggest you make sure the variable speed on/off switch is facing down to the workbench. Otherwise you may not remember how the parts go back in correctly and they will fall off if upside down). Now gently pry the case half off revealing the inside of your Dremel and put that case half aside for cleaning later. You will see an electrical motor with a shaft and bearings on each end. Gently pry the motor out. At the attachment tool end is a small shiny flat but half round piece of metal that looks somewhat like a ring for your finger. Note how it is placed and that it has a hole in it for the outside "attachment lock button". This ring will need to go back in correctly or the motor may make a lot of weird sounds, lock not work, and possible damage to the shaft. The picture below (made by another forum member - if I can get it inserted into this thread) will show you the parts (minus the main shaft with bearings) and has a pointer to the switch mechanism. Once you have pulled the full motor out of it's resting place (note how you did it so you can put it back in correctly), pull the center shaft (with bearings on the ends) out and lay it aside for now. The heavy cylinder shaped outside part of the motor will have the electrical plug wire attached. Gently pry the box shaped switch mechanism off the heavy motor part (don't pull using the plug wires). The switch mechanism will come off and you will see four electrical leads (little copper looking fingers). Note how the orientation of how they came out so you can put them back into the heavy outside part correctly later. Put the heavy motor part aside also. Now the switch mechanism housing is in your hand and has the electrical plug connected to it. Before you go any further, move the slider switch as you would using the Dremel and see how it works paying particular attention to how the inside sliding parts and slots fit together. Move it back and forth so you can see and remember.

Now to take the switch housing apart. If you carefully pry the wide left and wide right sides of the switch housing apart (they are not glued) the inside of the switch and it's contacts will be visible and accessible to cleaning.You should now see the switch housing has 4 parts. One wide housing side plate which you already pryed away from the other and is attached to the plug wires. You can move that aside for cleaning later. Then there are the: moveable arm I'll call it (the part you move to turn it on and adjust speed), snapped to that is a small rectangular piece with 3 small bent and hooked shaped metal contacts, and last the right side of the housing switch which has a transistor on it along with some elongated looking metal pieces embedded on a shelf of the housing half. These elongated pieces are what the hooked contacts connect to. Take special note of where the housing has grooved slides for movement of the moveable arm. Hopefully you noticed those before pulling the housing sides apart like I told you earlier. Side note: I took my camera to get pictures to post here with this thread but the battery was dead, sorry no photos. OK, now for cleaning. I "very very carefully" bent the 3 hooked shape contacts (on the little rectangular piece) out with a toothpick just a micro bit (being very careful not to break them) to ensure they would make contact. I don't have any electrical contact cleaner that would be best for cleaning electrical contacts (the cleaner can be found at a hobby store), so I used a very small piece of 400 sandpaper lightly and then some alcohol to clean the tips of those contacts where they would meet the lower contacts. Next, there are 3 flat contacts on the shelf of the housing that are elongated (I'll call them flat slide contacts). One of them doesn't appear to be metal but more like black silicone so I didn't sand that one. But did slightly sand (just to get rid of any carbon) the 2 metal ones (one copper and one shiny metal). Then I ran some alcohol over them with a q-tip being careful not to leave any q-tip filaments behind. The flat slide contacts looked much better. Then I used compressed air and the alcohol to clean all the other parts laying around on the table. I let it all dry and carefully put the switch housing back together. Then attached it to the heavy metal motor and assembled the motor back together (hope you payed attention when taking it apart). I thought about putting a little 3in1 oil on the 2 shaft bearings (which I also cleaned with a toothpick and a dry q-tip) but decided against it because I wasn't sure if the bearings were Teflon or greased. If they were teflon or greased, oiling them might have caused damage later. Also the oil may have attracted more dust and grime so I didn't oil them. Don't forget to put the little metal "ring" for the lock stop back in correctly before putting the case halves back on. And make sure all the electrical plug connections are still intact while positioning the end plug wire rubber square into the housing for reassembly.

After getting all the parts back together again, I plugged it into a known good and tested electrical outlet, crossed my fingers and turned it on. It ran great and the variable speed control worked great. I hung it on a bent hanger off a hook on my workbench at high speed for about 5 minutes and checked that it didn't seem to be overheating. Turned it off and on again and let it run another 10 minutes to seat the new brushes I had put in while troubleshooting earlier. If you put new brushes in as suggested, let it run for about 10 minutes to set them into place (see preliminary step 3 above). Perhaps the work you do on your Dremel 395 contact switch will get yours running again and correctly as it did for mine! Good Luck.

I hope this will be helpful to those needing to clean/maintain their Dremel and to those that find it necessary to clean up their Dremel switch contacts!

Mac

need for a dremel 395 power unit

smokie — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 13:50:48 GMT

Now then I bought a dremel router shaper table but my 300 series does not fit .I have found the number of the unit I need. Now where can I get one Thanks Michael(smokie):P

functionality

homeowner123 — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:35:22 GMT

can anyone tell me please why you can't use ms400 and pl400 0n the dremel 300

carbon brush for DREMEL 4000

riscrisc — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 21:00:41 GMT

hi.

I want to know which model of carbon brush can fit DREMEL 4000. There are three kinds of carbon brush on amazon, 90930, 90929. 90931. which one is correct?

In manual of DREMEL 4000, it said "To maintain peak efficiency of the motor, we recommend every 40 - 50 hours the brush es be examined. Only genuine Dremel replacement brushes specially designed for your tool should be used." But manual didn't indicate the model infomation. Is 90930 correct?

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-90930-Carbon-Motor-2-Pack/dp/B00004UDKL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1257217414&sr=8-1

Thank you.

Jewlery - Dremel 4000

marcos.souza — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:49:15 GMT

****o,

I would like to understand if Dremel (Dremel 4000) is a good tool to work with Jewlery (polish and cut). I will have to use the fleshaft and woundering if dremel can handle the precision requirements while working with jewlery.

Thanks, Marcos.

I am trying to cut out a pickpickguard out of 1/8" acrylic....any recommendations of tools/technique?

Keven — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:17:14 GMT

Hey everyone,

I am trying to make a pickguard out of 1/8" acrylic. What would be the best bits for the job? I already have this:

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Multi-Purpose-Cutting-565D/dp/B0000302YS

What would be the best bit to cut the acrylic? What about to bevel the edges? Also, do you think that I could make the same design (the part that is etched in)pictured below on material that is only 1/8" thick? I will post pictures of my progress and final product.

[img]http://www.vintage-guitars.se/1971_Yamaha_FG-300_1484076_front.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.gbase.com/files/store_images/gear/2170898/p1_u4rrxmcff_so.jpg[/img]

Dremel 275T6 single speed

Peanut — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 16:33:58 GMT

The on/off switch of this rotary tool seems to be frozen in the off position. Tried WD40 but no luck. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Dremel 1680 won't turn on....

Jason — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 21:06:10 GMT

I was using my dremel 1680 scroll saw all was fine. Changed the blade to make a cut and now it won't turn back on. The light works fine. Before this problem the saw was a little hesitant to come on. Like I would push the switch on and the saw wouldn't come on immediately but would come on a few seconds later.

Any ideas of what could be the problem?

Thanks.

Dremel Moto-shop 57-2

Brent Kincaid — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:33:36 GMT

I need another saw blade for this. Mine broke. I suspect this model is old as I can't find it in any catalogue. I would also be interested in any other kinds of blades it can use.

Pumpkin Dremel

droisen — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:53:05 GMT

I recently purchased a pumpkin Dremel because my Grandkids and I like to carve utilizing some intricate patterns, this gets quite tricky with carving tools. When I saw the add for the pumpkin Dremel I went out and purchased one. As we were carving the first pumpkin my Dremel became very hot, so I stopped to let the tool cool down. I was actually working on a fairly simple pattern and only got 1/2 the pattern cut out before this occurred and I had been carving less than 20 minutes. Upon trying to resume carving the next day I noted my batteries (which were new when I started) were already dead. I am wondering if I have a bad unit or if this is normal. Have other's had this experience or other experiences they are willing to share regarding the pumpkin Dremel?

XPR 400 & the Smoking Motor

RyanGardner — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 00:37:29 GMT

I bought an XPR 400 from Home Depot about a month ago. When I went to use the planer attachment, I followed the instructions exactly as they are stated - I turned it on and revved it up to the highest speed before using it to plane things... but I never got a chance to plane anything because a few seconds after turning it on - POOF - black smoke and a dead motor.

It was a Friday night, and I needed to use my Dremel for some stuff Saturday - so rather than deal with Dremel customer service I brought it back to Home Depot and swapped it out for a new one.

Tonight was the second time I've used the new Dremel XPR 400. I was using the little circular-saw attachment to cut some paint-stirrer sticks in half to use as shims to go under some transition molding, when again - POOF - black smoke, and the motor dies.

Having TWO dremels die on me within a few hours of use makes me thing one of three things:

1. The Dremel XPR 400 is a piece of **** or
2. I'm some kind of Dremel killer
3. I got extremely unlucky and somehow got two "lemons" of Dremels

I've always heard great things about Dremel and how they are supposed to last forever. EVERYTHING I am doing is exactly as I am instructed to do in the manuals.

Has anyone else smoked an XPR 400? What am I doing wrong? I have seen small amount of smoke coming out of the motor when just using a cutting wheel to cut through some laminate - and I've turned it off and let it cool down - only to have it die on my shortly afterwards.

I still have projects I need to use it for, so I'm going to return this one to Home Depot again tomorrow to get a new one...

(Sorry Dremel, but I find your "DON'T RETURN TO THE STORE YOU BOUGHT IT FROM" messages offensive and self-serving on your part. I'll return it to wherever I can get the fastest service - and unless you have some kind of courier service doing same-day delivery to me, returning it to the store is a much better option for me)

I want to avoid having to take this tool back to Home Depot every time I want to use it. Anyone have any tips that can help keep me from frying another one?

Hold down clamps

tnsilverleaf — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 12:30:19 GMT

I searched the forums for "hold down clamps" and came up empty.

I would like to have something to keep things still when I try to drill holes in s****s. On page 8 of the Work Station 220's owner's manual are directions for making hold down clamps. However, it seems that, were I to follow the directions, I would have to make a new "spacer" for each s****, depending on height.

Has anyone made hold down clamps to use with their work station and do you have photos?

Thanks
Erik
Calhoun, TN

Dremel Multipro 395T6

MMAffeldt — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 15:33:38 GMT

I bought a Dremel variable speed Multipro model 395T6 from a friend of mine, and I was researching different accessories and came across the cost of other dremels, Now I'm wondering if I paid to much for it and I'd like to see if I got a good deal, only I cant find the Dremel tool I bought for sale anywhere. Does anyone know what the Dremel Multipro 395T6 kit costs? its in a carrying case that has the flip up sides of clear plastic where you can put the accessories, has a seclection of varied accessories, cutting wheels, etc., and that extention thingy you can attatch to extend the dremel, and the saw attatchment. any help with pricing would be nice please.

400 XPR won't power on

Compton — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:54:34 GMT

I bought a 400 xpr last June to replace my older dremel, cant remember the model number. I got home and the thing puffed out some smoke. So I tooked it back and got another one. It worked. I used it for maybe 20 minutes. I was cutting some Lexan for a friend. Stopped to go eat dinner and when I got back it would'nt turn on. I got busy over the last couple of months and forgot to take it back.

I bought this one cus my other dremel was stating to acted up, it was about 5 years old and it didnt have an easy life but preformed well. The one before that was my Grandfathers. He bought it a long time ago. It worked great untill it was destoryed by a flood.

But my question is what can I do to get this thing working again. I know I cant return it, thats my fault. But going threw 2 of them in a day is ridiculous. Any clue as to what I could do. If its going to cost to much I'm just gonna go buy a rotary tool from a different company.

Anything that can help would be great.

XPR Planer

hands made for wood — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 16:16:40 GMT

So earlier today I bought the XPR planer not realizing that it was made only for the 400 XPR series... I own the 300 series Dremel, and my question is, is there any way to adapt the plane to my 300 seires dremel? I was wondering if it would work to make key ways, they call them in the accessory thread.

dremel 8000 cordless

rgm1800 — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:15:20 GMT

guys im planning to get a dremel cordless for light duty automotive projects like cutting, grinding, buffing and polishing.

what are the accessories needed for the for:

cutting
sanding
grinding
buffing
polishing
and drilling

thanks

Cutting out wood letters

ldal — Sun, 30 Aug 2009 10:09:24 GMT

Hi ,
I would like to cut out wood letters from wood. I would like to use various fonts and sizes (ie: 8", 10" 12"). I don't know where to start and I haven't even purchased a dremel yet. I have purchased wood letters for projects but thought why not just made them myself! Much of what I read explains engraving letters in wood. I need more specifics of what attachments to use or even if I am on the right track. I would welcome any tips you have gained through your experience with this.
Thank you, Lisa

1/4 collet for 732

signcarver — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 11:15:36 GMT

Looking for a 1/4" collet for model 732. Bought new machine at estate sale for cheap, missing 1/4" collet and book.

Stripped chuck threads

gashat — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 19:27:45 GMT

****o New to forum and need some help. Does anyone know what size threads are used on the dremel chuck? Mine measures out to 40 TPI.Want to purchase a die to rethread. Any ideas? Thankls for any help. Gene

Dremel good for architectural models?

DeanB — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:15:52 GMT

My wife is really having a hard time cutting matte boards and other materials when making architectual models for school. I've helped her cut them by hand and let me tell you, after a couple hours of that your hand is sore and cramping.

I wanted to know if there is a dremel that might help her. She will need to be able to cut irregular and straight lines in matte board, and from time to time work with other materials. I was thinking of something that would work almost like a miniature table saw for straight lines and somehing that would work like a jig saw or reciprocating saw for curved and irregular cuts. The only thing is the cuts will have to be clean, on par with what you could do with a box cutter or exacto.

Any advice or product suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.

Collet Nut won't turn or come off

TheNewbie — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 15:58:25 GMT

Hi,
I haven't used my dremel in quite some time and came back to find that the shaft is a bit rusty and I can't change bits because the collet nut won't turn. I've tried adding some liquid wrench to the shaft but that hasn't helped.
Can anyone offer any advice?
I was hoping to get some projects done around the house.
Thanks in advance.

Dust Extractor for the Flex shaft

RZA77 — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 14:37:50 GMT

I am desperate need for a dust extractor which I can attach to my Dremel flex shaft,

I use my Dremel a lot and I use to sand large piece of wood and dust goes every where and sometimes I need to work inside my home so I need something I can attach to the flex shaft that would collect all the dust

Money for Jam

flecknoe — Sat, 26 Sep 2009 08:49:36 GMT

I have just got a new Dremel 300 series because I really liked the look of the tool. I'm interested to know - has anyone come across any really interesting but necessary functions that could be used as a hobby business? What could I do with my Dremel to help people out for a little weekend extra fun and cash?

parts for dremel model 1680 scrollsaw

stacey — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 05:23:40 GMT

I was given this scrollsaw. The motor runs good, cant tell how old it is, Model 1680. any way, The counter balance on the end of the motor shaft had lost the bolt that holds the connecting rod to the lower arm , I do believe is striped out , it wont stay in and there is a terrible vibration about mid speed. I this the counter balancer is striped out and I don't know where to go to get the parts. Please help if any one can! thank you who ever responds to this letter stacey

Mounting 400 Digital into the 220 WorkStation

nepdk — Sat, 19 Sep 2009 04:54:12 GMT

The manual following my Dremel WorkStaton 220 sais: "NOTE: model 398, 400 and 800 will mount with the spindle lock to the right." I wonder if this is true for my 400 digital, seems not to be possible!

Stone Engraving

Vermont — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 12:39:10 GMT

What type of tool can I use with my Dremel Tool for some engraving on a stone. I want to provide some engrave onto a stone as a "pet marker".

Thanks

Which Dremel to choose?

judyp — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:44:33 GMT

I would like opinions on which Dremel rotary tool is best to drill beach stones and sea glass. I understand that it should be a variable speed model and the drilling show be done slowly but am not sure which model would work best. Any suggestions?

Portable Organized Bit holder

DeHobbyGuy — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 10:57:02 GMT

I am looking for an inexpensive way to organize my Dremel Bits. I got a kit for christmas and it just has plastic pull outs. So to find a bit I have to look at all 4 and 2 are hidden. I want a box to hold the Dremel, bits with label in front or on the case. If I want to cut wood, metal, or sand I don't have to look at the book every time. I was going to make it out of wood with holes, but I figure there has to be a better way. [b]Thank you for reading my post [/b] :)

Bearing Replacement in a Dremel 395

DGeorge747 — Fri, 25 May 2007 08:31:26 GMT

I have a model 395 Dremel which I have had for quite awhile. It still works fine but the bearings are bad and it is especially troublesome when trying to use it as a router or for delicate work.

Dremel does not offer replacement bearings for this model and I haven't taken it apart yet to see what bearings it needs.

I was just wondering if anyone has replaced the bearings in this model Dremel and if so, what bearings does it take.

Torque Inquiry: 0.5A Only, Dremel 300, 220v

alvin777 — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 21:03:47 GMT

Hi. The Dremel 300 sold in asia, if you look at the specifications in the manual only has 0.5A and runs at 220v. Does this have the same torque as the 1.15A that runs on 110v, it having more voltage (220v)? Or the torque of the Dremel 300 here in asia is significantly weaker because it uses 220v? If it is weaker, is there anything I can do to make it a 1.15A Dremel 300?

Thanks in advance.

Gbu,

Alvin

Flexible Shaft Compatibility: Dremel 300 with B&D RTX RT5100 Flexible Shaft?

alvin777 — Tue, 08 Sep 2009 20:56:36 GMT

Hi. Is the Dremel 300 compatible with Black & Decker's flexible shaft (RTX RT5100).

Is Dremel's Flex Shaft (225 model) better than the RTX RT5100? Which gives you better control and which one will you have less fatigue?

Thanks in advance.

Gbu,
Alvin

tool rest for #700 lathe

GeetarzRme — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 21:18:06 GMT

Hi, I recently bought a #700 lathe which is missing the tool rest. Any suggestions on where I might find one? I plan to use the lathe to make custom wood guitar knobs and wood pens.

Thanks

Intricate Work: B&D Shaft, Dremel Shaft or Stylus

alvin777 — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 21:34:58 GMT

Hi. For those who've used these three: Black & Decker shaft (since it's compatible with Dremel), Dremel Shaft and the Stylus for intricate work. Which one is your favorite? Thanks in advance.

Gbu,

Alvin

Question for Model 398...can't open door for brushes

xx****catxx — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 11:33:46 GMT

I can pop the latch, but the door won't pull off....I've used force, and I think if I used any more that it might break. I've tried some prying with some micro screw drivers, and still it won't budge.

Anybody have a clue? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

flex shaft 225 T2

Scoutmaster — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 06:40:45 GMT

can anyone tell me which Dremel Moto Tool will fit the Flex Shaft Model 225 T2?

Easy Way to Identify Attachments?

codycomposer — Sat, 29 Aug 2009 12:49:49 GMT

Hi there,

I'm new to the Dremel tool, and I'm trying to get acquainted with all of the parts.

Is there an easy way to identify the various attachments? Articles will often say something like "Use Mandril #402", but none of the attachments are numbered or labeled that I can see.

I've been using the Quick Start Book chart to visually compare attachments to their photos, but I was curious as to whether there was an easier way I wasn't aware of.

Thanks for the help!

4486 Keyless Chuck and Dremel 800

mike800 — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 19:37:14 GMT

I just want to confirm that the 4486 will work on my cordless Dremel 800 before I buy. It doesn't mention the 800 on package. Thanks.

Which attachment should I use?

brokesailor — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 07:26:31 GMT

I removed a plexiglass window out of it's aluminum frame from a sailboat to try repair a leak. There is sealant all around the glass and frame that I am unable to remove completely with just plain elbow grease. What attachment can I get for the Dremer to do the job? Thanks.