Dremel Message Board / General Dremel Discussions / Dremel Help

Leather and Rubber Polishing Wheels?

NDJ — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 13:26:09 GMT

Hi Everyone:

Quick Intro:

I'm new to this board but have owned two dremels for a number of years (400 XPR and the 398 Digital) and rely on them quite a bit. I don't have any particular skill, i.e. woodworking, metalworking, etc., I simply use the dremel when I think it's the most useful. I say this so that you understand the context of my questions.

It seems like the most common task I perform with my dremels revolve around cleaning and polishing. I've used a lot of the brass and stainless steel brushes and lots of the cotton and felt polishing wheels. I've always bought the Dremel brand parts but have recently taken the time to look around at other vendors since it vastly opens up the options with such a wider variety to choose from. Anyway. . .

Questions:

1. What are the most common uses for leather polishing wheels?

2. What are the recommended uses for rubber wheels and tips?

3. Who are the best online vendors for aftermarket supplies?

I've done a cursory forum search and have become familiar with Widget Supply. I'm just curious for other recommendations based on experience with the vendors.

Thanks so much in advance

Jim

Cutting a hole with diameter of 1.5" in MDF

Wongster — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 23:05:34 GMT

Hi folks,

Got to trouble you again.

Any idea what I can use to cut a hole (or some call it bore a hole) of this size with my 400series Digital?

Regards,

Wongster

Extracting a screw with a stripped head

noosphere — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 17:21:56 GMT

Anyone have any tips for using a Dremel to extract a screw with a stripped head?

Thanks!

[img]http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/1942/screwcy1.jpg[/img]

Pantograph

Buck8one2 — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:43:12 GMT

Anyone know of a small Pantograph that is usable with the Dremel tool. I plan on cutting small mother of pearl designs for inlay work. I've been trying to chase down one of the old Sears pantographs but no luck yet.

Buck

I need advice on Model 395 Type 5 & Flex shaft 225 T2

shane — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 05:11:01 GMT

I'm due for new accessories. I need to know if their any incompatible bits that won't with this older unit for attachments will the 575 Right Angle work. Thanks... Shane:)

398 Old Version help

agentsmith23 — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 20:33:31 GMT

A few days ago I bought an older 398 at a flea market for $20. I didn't know at the time about the different versions of the 398. But I have been reading on-line and have noticed that it is now called the digital dremel and on the one I have it just says Dremel Professional, it also runs at a slower speed the newer version runs at 35,000 and mine is rated at 30,000rpm. Well those seem to be the only differences that I have noticed.

So anyway the problem showed up today when I actually got to use it for the first time. I was using a cutoff wheel to cut through a piece of aluminum and when i was done i pressed the button to take the speed all the way down to 5 before shutting it off and I noticed it was fluctuating speed a bit and it eventually shut off on its own. I thought that was odd so I tried to turn it on and off multiple times and nothing happened. After letting it rest for about 30 seconds i tried again and the rotor spun a little but it still wouldn't start. So i let it rest for a bit longer and tried again and it worked that time. I finished up what i was doing and kept having the same problem whenever i would need to turn off the dremel.

After i was done I took it apart and examined the insides. A few things i noticed; the inside looked fairly clean very little dust even though there was a bit built up around the front bearing. The front bearing felt like it moved a little rough, i removed the dust and sprayed some wd-40 on it. (i know it is a sealed bearing and it shouldn't matter) The commutator where the brushes sit was pretty black and i cleaned it up with a pencil eraser (a trick i learned a long time ago). It seems to be running ok just on the couple of test runs but not really under any kind of load. Does it sound like there could possible be anything else wrong with the dremel?

Sorry about the long post but I wanted to be very thorough. This is my first dremel.

How to cut holes in glass and with what?

valarial — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:52:14 GMT

I want to buy my husband a dremel tool so that he can put holes in the bottoms of glass bottles (and other materials) to make lamps. I am getting very confused as to what dremel, atachments, and accessories to get.

Could anyone please help out a gadget/tool-ignorant wife? lol

:crazy:

Thank you!!

Dia. Burr Grit Q.

dabiv — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 12:36:36 GMT

H e l l o Everyone,

I have Q. about the Diamond Burrs. listed on Widget Supply. The Burrs are offered in 6 differant grits with 240 grit being the most common. Can someone tell me what grit(s) you would recomend for glass etching ? As I have not seen any referance to the grit used when galass etching.

chuck

agkubas — Sat, 06 Jan 2007 16:15:08 GMT

I don't know if I get this right but I have a problem getting the chuck tight I mean the chuck were one can quickly change the bits without changing the collet?Very convinient. do you know what I mean? My hands are small and not strong and therefore I do not get it tight enough so after working a few minutes the bit is loose,

Thanks for any help

p.s. I have problems to login , errors etc. and than suddenly I am excepted???? and in.

Agkubas

How to fix your Dremel 395 if it suddenly stops working, intermittent speed fluctuation, speed stuck, or dead Dremel.

mrmac — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 11:16:16 GMT

Some people asking for assistance on forums never get back with what happened after getting advice or "close the loop" to tell others what the outcome was. I know good people have taken their valuable time to try and help, so I feel it only right and courteous to take some of my time to do the same. Here is my way of giving back to the Dremel forum and community.

Maybe this thread post will help others looking for answers to the problem of a Dremel 395 type 5 suddenly stoping, intermittent speed fluctuation, or speed stuck at some rpm.

Here are a few preliminary steps you should try first to get your Dremel working again:
1- Turn it off and plug it into a known good AND tested electrical outlet. (plug a lamp in or something to see if the outlet works, you might have blown a fuse to the outlet).

2- With compressed air, blow out the inlet and outlet openings on the sides of the Dremel. There may be a buildup of dust or debris inside on the rotor. If you have no air compressor you use a can of compressed air (wal-mart or target has them).

3- Change the motor brushes with new ones. (These can be purchased at hardware stores that seel the Dremel tools and attachments - such as Lowes or Home Depot). To change the motor brushes, use the end of the locking wrench that cam with your Dremel. On the outside of the Dremel you will find two caps with slots for replacing the brushes. Unscrew the caps (but be careful because the springs inside will fly out). When you get the cap off, remove the spring (if it hasn't flown away) and make sure the old brush is still attached to the spring. If not, turn the Dremel to get a little rectangular lead looking piece out. That is the electrical brush for the motor. Follow the directions on the package for the new brushes and insert them correctly. If you don't the motor will not run and may damage the rotor. Make sure the Dremel is not plugged in and give the end (where you put in an attachment) a manual spin to ensure it will turn smoothly. If not you have put the brushes in incorrectly).

Hopefully one or all of those steps will get your Dremel working again. If not, you may want to contact Dremel to have yours repaired or replaced. There is a 5 year warranty on Dremels, and if yours is beyond 5 years from purchase they will repair it for a fee that is much less than having to purchase a new Dremel.

This last option, (if you don't mind voiding your warranty and are handy at fixing things) is to open it up and try to repair it yourself. Keep in mind that Dremel may not work on it for you later if you work on it yourself.

Having said that, infrequently there is a problem with the Dremel 395 which seems to be with the switch contacts over time, getting dirty, buildup of carbon, and dependent on working conditions, dust accumulation inside the Dremel. For those of us that may be having a problem with intermittent operation, stuck on/off switch, sudden stoppage, or dead altogether. Here is how to take the Dremel 395 apart and work on it yourself. I have a 395 type 5 that has worked dependably for me for over 15 years. However, one day it just quit on me suddenly. I followed the 3 preliminary steps mentioned above but they didn't help this time. So it was necessary for me to open it up and investigate. After cleaning the contacts, my dependable little friend is working like a champ again.

Here is how to clean the contacts: First make sure the Dremel is not plugged in (you won't believe how many people forget to do that). Remove the brushes as directed in preliminary step 3 above. To take the case halves apart you will need a #15 torx head screwdriver or bit. If you don't have one and don't want to go get one, a very small head flat tip screwdriver or something else might work. There are 4 torx head screws on the outside of the Dremel 395 hard plastic casing. Lay the Dremel flat on a work surface and unscrew the round plastic collar at the attachment end. You can leave the metal screw lock and collets on. Now unscrew the 4 screws holding the case halves together. But before taking the halves apart, I suggest you make sure the variable speed on/off switch is facing down to the workbench. Otherwise you may not remember how the parts go back in correctly and they will fall off if upside down). Now gently pry the case half off revealing the inside of your Dremel and put that case half aside for cleaning later. You will see an electrical motor with a shaft and bearings on each end. Gently pry the motor out. At the attachment tool end is a small shiny flat but half round piece of metal that looks somewhat like a ring for your finger. Note how it is placed and that it has a hole in it for the outside "attachment lock button". This ring will need to go back in correctly or the motor may make a lot of weird sounds, lock not work, and possible damage to the shaft. The picture below (made by another forum member - if I can get it inserted into this thread) will show you the parts (minus the main shaft with bearings) and has a pointer to the switch mechanism. Once you have pulled the full motor out of it's resting place (note how you did it so you can put it back in correctly), pull the center shaft (with bearings on the ends) out and lay it aside for now. The heavy cylinder shaped outside part of the motor will have the electrical plug wire attached. Gently pry the box shaped switch mechanism off the heavy motor part (don't pull using the plug wires). The switch mechanism will come off and you will see four electrical leads (little copper looking fingers). Note how the orientation of how they came out so you can put them back into the heavy outside part correctly later. Put the heavy motor part aside also. Now the switch mechanism housing is in your hand and has the electrical plug connected to it. Before you go any further, move the slider switch as you would using the Dremel and see how it works paying particular attention to how the inside sliding parts and slots fit together. Move it back and forth so you can see and remember.

Now to take the switch housing apart. If you carefully pry the wide left and wide right sides of the switch housing apart (they are not glued) the inside of the switch and it's contacts will be visible and accessible to cleaning.You should now see the switch housing has 4 parts. One wide housing side plate which you already pryed away from the other and is attached to the plug wires. You can move that aside for cleaning later. Then there are the: moveable arm I'll call it (the part you move to turn it on and adjust speed), snapped to that is a small rectangular piece with 3 small bent and hooked shaped metal contacts, and last the right side of the housing switch which has a transistor on it along with some elongated looking metal pieces embedded on a shelf of the housing half. These elongated pieces are what the hooked contacts connect to. Take special note of where the housing has grooved slides for movement of the moveable arm. Hopefully you noticed those before pulling the housing sides apart like I told you earlier. Side note: I took my camera to get pictures to post here with this thread but the battery was dead, sorry no photos. OK, now for cleaning. I "very very carefully" bent the 3 hooked shape contacts (on the little rectangular piece) out with a toothpick just a micro bit (being very careful not to break them) to ensure they would make contact. I don't have any electrical contact cleaner that would be best for cleaning electrical contacts (the cleaner can be found at a hobby store), so I used a very small piece of 400 sandpaper lightly and then some alcohol to clean the tips of those contacts where they would meet the lower contacts. Next, there are 3 flat contacts on the shelf of the housing that are elongated (I'll call them flat slide contacts). One of them doesn't appear to be metal but more like black silicone so I didn't sand that one. But did slightly sand (just to get rid of any carbon) the 2 metal ones (one copper and one shiny metal). Then I ran some alcohol over them with a q-tip being careful not to leave any q-tip filaments behind. The flat slide contacts looked much better. Then I used compressed air and the alcohol to clean all the other parts laying around on the table. I let it all dry and carefully put the switch housing back together. Then attached it to the heavy metal motor and assembled the motor back together (hope you payed attention when taking it apart). I thought about putting a little 3in1 oil on the 2 shaft bearings (which I also cleaned with a toothpick and a dry q-tip) but decided against it because I wasn't sure if the bearings were Teflon or greased. If they were teflon or greased, oiling them might have caused damage later. Also the oil may have attracted more dust and grime so I didn't oil them. Don't forget to put the little metal "ring" for the lock stop back in correctly before putting the case halves back on. And make sure all the electrical plug connections are still intact while positioning the end plug wire rubber square into the housing for reassembly.

After getting all the parts back together again, I plugged it into a known good and tested electrical outlet, crossed my fingers and turned it on. It ran great and the variable speed control worked great. I hung it on a bent hanger off a hook on my workbench at high speed for about 5 minutes and checked that it didn't seem to be overheating. Turned it off and on again and let it run another 10 minutes to seat the new brushes I had put in while troubleshooting earlier. If you put new brushes in as suggested, let it run for about 10 minutes to set them into place (see preliminary step 3 above). Perhaps the work you do on your Dremel 395 contact switch will get yours running again and correctly as it did for mine! Good Luck.

I hope this will be helpful to those needing to clean/maintain their Dremel and to those that find it necessary to clean up their Dremel switch contacts!

Mac

Advice on Cutting 3/4" Plywood with XPR400

GottaLuvaDrml — Sun, 16 Nov 2008 19:09:38 GMT

Greetings all: I'm a relatively new Dremel user. I luv it! How did I live so long with out one! Now for my question:

I have to cut a long stretch of already installed cabinet. Specifically, I need to lop off about 1" from the base of this overhead cabinet. The wood is plywood; 3/4" thick. So the job is too small for my regular jigsaw.

From my searching around, it seems that I would need the Multi-Saw attachment. Is this all? Or should I be using some other additional tool?? And can you all give any suggestions on how to cut a really straight line??

I have a 400XPR.

Thanks in advance!

Jack.

Cutting 1/4 inch aluminum

cinciman — Sat, 15 Nov 2008 15:08:09 GMT

All -

I am in need of advice. I need to cut small notches in an aluminum ring, and I am not sure what bit/speed to use. the aluminum is 1/4 inch thick (not sure what type of aluminum), and the notches I need to cut will be about 1/8 out of the inside diamater of the ring.

I tried using a standard grinding bit, not realizing that aluminum melts at low temperatures. After about three minutes, the entire bit was coated in smooth alumiminum.

I am thinking that I can use one of the high speed cutting bits, making several passes to complete the job. Because of the type of cuts I need to make, abrasive cutoff wheels cannot be used.

What suggestions can you make, including speeds? Also, should I plan on using some sort of cooling lubricant?

Thanks in advance for your assistance

Cinciman

Which Dremel to purchase?

Jake Mc — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 13:40:51 GMT

I would like to get a Dremel to help with refinishing furniture... more for stripping old paint off hard to get to areas... what suggestions would y'all have on which Dremel to purchase? Which attachments are best for this type of a job? thanks

Cutting hole in soffit

jreed — Fri, 14 Nov 2008 10:48:08 GMT

I am getting ready to install a vent in my plastic soffit that needs a 5" hole. What attachment would be best for this?

Grinding/shaving plastic

jblevin — Thu, 13 Nov 2008 23:03:41 GMT

I got a Dremel 800 cordless a couple years ago. Fantastic tool. Now I've got a piece of plastic car trim in the rear that covers the speaker, and I want to use the Dremel to shave off a thin layer off the underside of the speaker grill to make room for an aftermarket speaker. The grill thickness is between 1/8" and 1/4". I think I need to shave off about 1/16", in two placed: a 1-inch channel on the perimeter of the 6.5" diameter, and about a 1.5" diameter circle in the middle. I have an couple of aluminum oxide grinding stones (reddish) that came with the tool. But the Dremel book doesn't show a speed setting for plastic for that bit type. The choices for plastic seem to be the silicon carbide grinding stone (blue/green) or a structured tooth tungsten carbide cutter. I want to be careful not to shave off too much or cut through. What stone/cutter would you recommend for this job? Any other general tips? Thanks!

1/16" diameter Straight Router bit?

Buzz Saw — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 18:54:24 GMT

Hi, I have a need to route 1/16" slots with a router bit. I see Dremel offers the Dremel 650 1/8" Straight Router Bit. Is there a 1/16" Straight Router bit with a 1/8" shank available? Would anyone know of any other manufactures that offer this bit? Thank you.

432 Sanding Bands

bluedog58 — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 13:34:51 GMT

I just bought a new 300 series Dremel to use for my dogs' nails. It works really well except I wasn't able to get the disc all the way onto the mandrel (402) and before I finished it came apart.

Is there a trick to replacing the bands?

Thanks, Barb

The other Dremel message board

SpiderCurt — Tue, 11 Nov 2008 20:17:39 GMT

Hi All

Some will remember a board member, nicknamed "Lucifer", that started a forum for Dremel sometime last year. Because of low activity on his site he had decided to close the forum in June of this year. I thought members here would be interested to know that Martin changed his mind as of August of this year. According to his post he is going to give it another year. With some support this can be another source of information. Here is the link:

[url=http://dremelforumcom.proboards106.com/index.cgi]Dremelforum.com[/url]

Although I haven't been able to get it to work for me, this forum has a chat room feature. The "Tips 'N' Tricks" computer help chat room on AOL proved to be a very good way to help solve problems.

Curt

Dremel Customer Service

kenty — Tue, 04 Nov 2008 11:44:27 GMT

Greetings All,

My wife's Dremel (a Christmas gift several years ago) broke. Seems the connection between the motor's output shaft and "collet nut attachment shaft" failed. We noticed from day one that the motor at times would go through phases of vibration. This would occur about 1/4 of the time the motor ran. It didn't seem to slow the speed it operated just was annoying. I speculate that this added vibration cause the union to fail between the motor shaft and the "collet shaft". I assume that the union was a friction fit, in that I don't see any broke part(s). The motor will still run but you can hold the collet nut by hand.

My wife wasted her time calling customer service (Oct 29th). They told her the motor and shaft assembly was $10 and took her info as well as a credit card number. We never got any parts. I called customer service and they had no record of parts being shipped out and that this model (770 type 1) has been discontinued.:angry:

Time to start looking for a better designed cordless tool.

Bits for engraving Rune stones

LynnJ — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 11:38:45 GMT

I am looking to make rune stones again and am looking for the appropriate bits to do so. My old bit is from a lapidary and I used it with a small sponge to keep the stone wet and in place. I understand that diamond bits would work without water, but I don't know which one(s) to use. Any advice?

Cutting rebar

texasguy — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 20:25:06 GMT

What dremel tool and what cutting wheel is best to cut a rebar that is protruding just outside of my back door saddle thru the brick grout. It sticks up thru the grout about 20 degrees from horizontal and in plan view is about 1 inch outside the door saddle and about 1 to 1.5 inches from the face of the door framing (door jamb). Inotherwords it's a bit tight to get to so a small cutting wheel would be ideal. And if I can get the correct cutting wheel, can I cut the rebar on the horizonal so I don't cut into the brick and grout or does my cut have to be perpendicular to the bar? And for the dremel tool, can it be cordless or does it have to be electric? Thank you.

Model 275 for grout removal

oldman138 — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 17:11:11 GMT

I have a almost never used model 275 (single speed). Has anyone out there ever used one to remove grout from the shower ? I hear that if I purchase the grout removal tool kit, it will fit my dremel, but it revs too fast and will burn the bits up ? I really can"t see buying a new dremel, just for a one time job ? I also have a Roto Zip spiral cut Saw that travels at 30,000 rpm, and it's bits and I thought mayb I could use that bit in the grout removal tool ? Anybody have any thoughts ? Thanks

dremel bit sizes

tomchew — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 15:34:06 GMT

For the Dremel MultiPro model 395 is it possible to change out the drill chuck(part that holds the bit) to a smaller size because i got a 1/16 shank and the one thats on it is much bigger.

Shaft Lock Stripped

john689089 — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 12:54:18 GMT

I recently purchased a 10.8V cordless Model 800. Have been using it quite a bit with different grinding bits. Today after grinding on some nail heads for about 10 minutes, I stopped to change bits. When I tried to lock the shaft with the shaft lock button and loosen the collet nut, the shaft slipped out of the shaft lock and I cannot get the collet nut loose. No matter how hard I press and hold the shaft lock button, I can't keep the shaft from turning when I try to loosen the collet. The button that slips into the shaft detent seems to be stripped. Is there any way I can fix this?

Accessory for Cutting Ceramic Floor Tile

krazykat — Tue, 04 Nov 2008 15:59:23 GMT

I want to try my hand at etching ceramic floor tile for decorative purposes. I might need to cut and shape some of the tiles. Are there accessories to do this? Looking at the site, the only accessories for cutting tile say, "For Wall Tile Only." Is the only way to cut ceramic floor tile with a hand rod saw?

Best Dremel Attachment for Grinding Metal

Vortec-Z71 — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 18:23:44 GMT

I need to grind down an exhaust stud. I am wondering which is the best Dremel attachment to do so. In the pic below, you can see that I have a limited amount of space, so it can't be a grinding wheel. Would attachment 9931 or 9903 be good for this job?

Chain saw sharpening tool guide one sided

stuckagain — Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:06:18 GMT

I purchased and tried using the chain saw sharpening tool. I've studied the instructions and am missing something. To sharpen the first set of teeth you can rest the guide on the tooth getting good depth control, BUT on the other side the guide is totally off the tooth and resting on the depth gauge, which should be a bout 20/1000 lower then the tooth. How can a person get the same depth control? I just can't see how to lay the guide on the tooth as explained in the instructions. It seems to me there should be two flat surfaces.

275 Replacement Part?

mrgeneric — Sun, 11 Mar 2007 11:32:23 GMT

Sorry if this is a commonly asked question but I didn't know what to search on to find the answer...

My wife has a Moto-tool 275. The motor spins but not the attachment. Opening it I find that there is a hard rubber or plastic part that connects the motor to the attachment. It has cracked and fallen apart. I suspect that this is designed to break, rather than let too much load be put on the motor. Where can I find a replacement part?

TIA,

-Scott

Printed Circuit Board Milling

Wongster — Sun, 05 Oct 2008 09:34:52 GMT

Hi there,

I just got hold of a Dremel 400 series Digital and I'm looking at the possibility of using it to produce printed circuit board (PCB) instead of using chemicals. My search on the internet revealed CNC machines that are either too expensive to buy or too difficult to DIY given my little experience.

Anyone can give me a headstart by pointing to me what I need with my new Dremel and how to go about "cutting" or "engraving" the board?

Appreciate any help.

Regards,

Wongster

Beginner's Lessons- Seattle Area

jfrosenberg — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 11:30:58 GMT

Are there any Dremel beginner's classes in the Seattle area? Any folks want to get together to learn? I learn best by visual and hands on. Thanks.

Gourd carving with Dremel

carriec — Tue, 28 Oct 2008 19:44:45 GMT

I love to carve hard s****ed gourds with my Dremel. I especially love the burs and carving and sanding tools...it does a great job! I use it with the flex shaft for more mobility and control in my hand!

One suggestion: Add more of the wrenches to the tool kit. YOu use them continually to change out the heads and those get lost all of the time at my house! Or...sell the wrenches seperately in a pack like you do the cutting heads.

Thanks!

XPR 400 & the Smoking Motor

RyanGardner — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 00:37:29 GMT

I bought an XPR 400 from Home Depot about a month ago. When I went to use the planer attachment, I followed the instructions exactly as they are stated - I turned it on and revved it up to the highest speed before using it to plane things... but I never got a chance to plane anything because a few seconds after turning it on - POOF - black smoke and a dead motor.

It was a Friday night, and I needed to use my Dremel for some stuff Saturday - so rather than deal with Dremel customer service I brought it back to Home Depot and swapped it out for a new one.

Tonight was the second time I've used the new Dremel XPR 400. I was using the little circular-saw attachment to cut some paint-stirrer sticks in half to use as shims to go under some transition molding, when again - POOF - black smoke, and the motor dies.

Having TWO dremels die on me within a few hours of use makes me thing one of three things:

1. The Dremel XPR 400 is a piece of **** or
2. I'm some kind of Dremel killer
3. I got extremely unlucky and somehow got two "lemons" of Dremels

I've always heard great things about Dremel and how they are supposed to last forever. EVERYTHING I am doing is exactly as I am instructed to do in the manuals.

Has anyone else smoked an XPR 400? What am I doing wrong? I have seen small amount of smoke coming out of the motor when just using a cutting wheel to cut through some laminate - and I've turned it off and let it cool down - only to have it die on my shortly afterwards.

I still have projects I need to use it for, so I'm going to return this one to Home Depot again tomorrow to get a new one...

(Sorry Dremel, but I find your "DON'T RETURN TO THE STORE YOU BOUGHT IT FROM" messages offensive and self-serving on your part. I'll return it to wherever I can get the fastest service - and unless you have some kind of courier service doing same-day delivery to me, returning it to the store is a much better option for me)

I want to avoid having to take this tool back to Home Depot every time I want to use it. Anyone have any tips that can help keep me from frying another one?

Grout

monbri — Mon, 27 Oct 2008 15:34:45 GMT

I need to re-grout a large area (family room/living room) and have yet to purchase a dremel. Can someone offer which model to purchase along with the best attachment.

Thanks in advance.

Attachment to e-mail

sandy — Sun, 26 Oct 2008 20:49:46 GMT

Can someone outline the steps I need to follow to respond to a "post" via e-mail and attach a pdf file? It's the attachment step that has me stumped.

re clamps for drill press base

artimundi — Sat, 25 Oct 2008 13:20:30 GMT

I have bought a drill press/stand and am trying to find clamps or something like , that fit into the base so that I can secure small round beads in the centre. I am trying to drill dead centre holes in these beads and cant find a suitable clamp or vice to hold them. Is there a Dremmel product that fits the bill. Thanks Val

Dremel Table saw 4 inch Model 588-2

collectaria — Sat, 25 Oct 2008 16:14:02 GMT

****o does anyone have an instruction manual .pdf of this machine its a 4 inch table saw - or any information please.

Dremel 8000-01 Cordless 10.8 volt

brianized — Sat, 25 Oct 2008 12:19:30 GMT

:crying:Has anyone experienced a problem with the 10.8 volt cordless?

I have had mine for about a year and one day I picked it up to sand my fingers (very dry skin) and all of the sudden the thing just goes into high speed? No control from the speed control! called customer service and had to send it back.

My question is has anyone had this problem?

And what was the cause. If it was my corded one I would have ripped it apart and fixed it. But this one is made with a circut board on the speed control.

Sincerely,

Rough hands

Grout Removal Help

greekzilla — Wed, 22 Oct 2008 08:31:52 GMT

I have been trying to replace broken tiles and have been using 570 1/8" Carbide Grout Removal Bit unsuccessfully. I have broken (3) bits and removed approx 2" of grout. I have set the speed at 20,000 RPM and using the guide. What am I doing wrong?

Battery Charging/charger

phoenix — Wed, 22 Oct 2008 04:32:41 GMT

I am looking at buying the 10.x volt Lithioum Ion Dremel tool in the States and I was wondering about using the charger overseas in a 220 volt environment.

Is the charger smart voltage sensing? Ie. can it use 110 or 220 volts?

Can I order a European 220 volt charger and use it instead to charge the battery pack that comes with the tool.

I already know the plugs are different but I have adapter fittings.

Can the charger be run off of a transformer that converts 220 volts to 110 volts. The HZ will be 50 instead of 60 though.

Please help quick!
Thanks,

Steve

Dremel Band Saw Model 1120

sandy — Sun, 19 Oct 2008 21:05:44 GMT

There have been some previous posts regarding the Dremel Band Saw. I did a google search and got the following url. They might have ordered belts from somebody in the past.

http://www.msusurplusstore.com/servlet/Detail?no=1842