Dremel Message Board / Suggestions for Dremel / Product Issues

dremel redesign

idguy10 — Sat, 18 Apr 2009 11:45:25 GMT

I am working on redesigning the current line of dremels for a college design project. I have been going through these message boards, reading up on what people have been having problems with regarding the usage of a dremel. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions and/or comments about what you would like to see improved. Thanks.

MultiMax manual error? Emtag removal?

cryt — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 10:53:48 GMT

1. This may have been discussed already, but isn't there an error in the MultiMax manual: pg 10? The blade descriptions for MM422 and MM440 appear to be reversed. Not a big deal, but a little confusing when trying to determine tool speed settings.

2. What is that Emtag gadget on the power cord of my MultiMax? It looks like it's maybe a store item ID device. If so, can't I remove it, even though it says not to? Is there any advantage in leaving it on the tool?

Dremel Drill Press

Ornathoid — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 20:01:08 GMT

****o, I love my Dremel to bits and use it all the time. Mainly for stone shaping.

I've run into a situation with my drill press where I find it is simply not stable enough to drill accurate holes. So, while looking around the web, I found out there were older models of drill presses that were more accurate. Specifically the model 210. Which is out of production.

I was in my favorite hobby shop when I spotted an old beat up Dremel which was for one of the model 210 drill presses. Someone had dropped it off as an unwanted orphan. Inside the paint-spattered, faded and dinged up box was a used but brand new looking 210. Gold!

Got it home and discovered my newer tool would not fit into the mounting brackets. (model 395)

Anyway, to make a long story short I was prowling the web for a way to make it work when I found out that Dremel was supposed to have made an adaptor to fit the 395 to the model 210 press...

Please tell me this is true! And if it is, please inform me who I have to bribe for one of these adaptors!

Bit and collet nut stuck

Millie — Mon, 08 Oct 2007 12:50:36 GMT

I own two Dremels: a Multi -Pro 395, and a Stylus 1100. My husband gave those two Dremel to me as presents because I'm an avid crafter and I treasure both of them. I was using the Stylus while doing some wood carving during the weekend and after replacing the bit two times before, I tried to replace for another bit a third time and it became stuck. After trying many times to remove just the bit unsuccessfully, I tried to remove the collet nut so I then I could try to remove the bit, but no luck. I also tried putting a bit of my sewing machine oil to see if it would help, but it didn't work either. The tool is working fine in any other way, it turns on and off fine and all the speeds are working properly, but the bit and the collet nut are completely stuck. I'm desperate, please help me!!!:crying:

Key less Chuck problem

Timberly — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 22:56:16 GMT

Hi I run all my Dremels with key less chucks I am finding after a while they tend to jamb up or lock closed .Also a small tweak with pliers is required to hold the bits in .Is this due to the jaws wearing ?
I have spoken to a number of people and this is happening to them to
Are there any suggestions as to how I can get them to last longer .
I live in NewZealand and the cost of a spanner less chuck is $50 Nz just under half the price of a Dremel
Another question on my large Dremel that I beleive is no longer made the hand piece gets very hot after a few minutes of use .This happened from new .is there anything I can do to improve the usage time as at present I don't use it because you cannot hold the hanpice it gets that hot
Cheers Terry from Down Under

dremel on the cheap

mercury — Fri, 15 Feb 2008 16:25:24 GMT

Ive been a dremel user for 15 years. In that time Ive owned 2 of the old black style dremels, each lasting about 7 years. Then recently I bought a new 400 series . After light use for roughly 2 minutes the unit started smoking and almost cought fire. After concluding that i had lost the receipt, i went to a different store and bought a 300 series dremel (thinking this was a fluke). After continuing my delayed project i found my new new dremel started smoking again(30 seconds of light use). I am extremley frustrated and wish dremel hadnt gone on the cheap, which they obviously have with their components. I have talked to coworkers that also have the same problems, great long lasting old style, and cheap new style. comments?

Complaint

nbtronic — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:44:11 GMT

Recently, I have bought a series 300 tool with 55 accessories set, an extra 249 accessories kit, a Work Station and a 231 table.

This table presents a major defect. Its surface is not flat and has a noticeable curvature in both directions, both in width and depth.

If you provide me an e-mail where I can send photos, surely you can see in detail the defect.

I am in Argentina. The seller already gave me a second unit but it also presents the same defect.

I will be grateful if you could give me a solution.

Complaint

nbtronic — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:40:05 GMT

Recently, I have bought a series 300 tool with 55 accessories set, an extra 249 accessories kit, a Work Station and a 231 table.

This table presents a major defect. Its surface is not flat and has a noticeable curvature in both directions, both in width and depth.

If you provide me an e-mail where I can send photos, surely you can see in detail the defect.

I am in Argentina. The seller already gave me a second unit but it also presents the same defect.

I will be grateful if you could give me a solution.

Dremel Multi-Max for 220v

Narasiate — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 19:11:20 GMT

I am a fan of Dremel tools.

I am looking for Dremel Multi-Max for 220v.

Where I can find?

Repair ??

dusty — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:59:31 GMT

Does anyone else have one of these. Model 2 It has a really nice wooden case and 24 accessories. Finally gave up after 60 years. I used it for model building, and then later for most any small job.

Old versus new

JRS — Thu, 23 Jul 2009 03:56:02 GMT

Yesterday while working on a lawnmower, my ancient Dremel died. Bought it new as a 36 piece kit in May of 1989 for $36...yes I do have the reciept! I have worn out several sets of motor brushes, and the commutator has even been dressed and cut because of grooves and wear. While right in the middle of a job, I decided to purchase a replacement tool. Found the model 300 in a kit for a good price. I came home to resume my project, and after just a few minutes use, the tool was red hot and smelled burnt. After allowing a cool down, the motor would not run unless you applied pressure to the switch. Called the store and was told to bring it back for exchange. Before returning to the store, I decided to open my original old tool to see why it stopped after 20 years. Found inside is a rubber coupler which had broken, so I headed back with my new defect and the coupler from my old one. I exchanged the new one for another plus I picked up a 6 inch piece of clear soft tube. I replaced the coupler with the clear tube, and it works great, plus my new model 300 works flawless as well. It does seem to run slightly warmer than my old one, and my only complaint is that the kit box is made so cheap. My old box had actual hinges where the new one does not. Also had the little tray with the holes for each bit, where the new one has such a wonderful design that all of my bits are thrown loosely into a small white box that fits into the tool case. With the price of the tool, and the solid quality of the tool, why not give us a better case, even if it means going up another $10 in price! Some of my bits were expensive enough that I would gladly pay the extra for a case to protect them!

Worn out

dusty — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:39:43 GMT

Why cant Dremel make these tools last? My MODEL 2 bought in the late 40's has worn out. Brushes replaced and Mica cut down several times. Darn just plain gave up.

Video Tutorials available for download

cooperda — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 05:41:39 GMT

I would like to make a suggest for a addition on the web site where video tutorials can be added showing how to correctly use the attached tools and accessories.

Particularly the use of the various attachments for the dremel tools.

Dremel Saw
Dremel Router Plunger
Dremel Router Table
Dremel Tile Cutter
Dremel mower blade sharpener
etc
etc

Poor Tool box

Richtea — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 10:24:38 GMT

Just bought a Dremel 300 series. Great tool let down by really poor tool box. Looked okay from the outside but after opening and seeing the layout, its quite useless. Thinking about the money and the effort to design it I would go and ask the designer for my money back.

For instance, why the huge handle and gap for carrying? There isn't a lead brick inside. More inner space could be achieved by reducing the handle dimensions and associated hand space.

My natural instinct is to open the box with the bigger half upper most. It looks like some kind of stacking feature?

Inside-why the poor layout? I struggled trying to pack the tool away-I'm talking about the lead and plug here.
In the upper half why not remove all that unnecessary volume and allow a larger hinged fitment box. Make the handbook 2/3 size and it can fit neatly next to it instead of having to jam it in to the bottom?

Lower half carrying the (very good) Dremel. Wasted space. Could have designed it more wisely.

In fact looking over it all the hinge doesn't look as if its going to last long so really its a waste of money so to sum up;

Sell the Dremel in a cardboard box, Sell the tools in the selection kits; 25, 50 etc. and finally, sell some decent boxes to hold everything say in starter, intermediate and expert classes.

I'll probably throw away the box soon and relace it with something better, which isn't going to help global warming is it?

Thank you Dremel

RetNav94 — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 23:29:56 GMT

I just bought all but two or three attachments for the 400 XPR. The router/shaper table, the tool holder was not the right one for the 400 XPR, so I asked about it in an email, low and behold I received one in the mail. I didn't even ask for one. I was quite surprised and happy. Thank You Mr. Dremel. I love the tools. I look forward to purchasing more attachments.

Model 800 power on/off switch

landeck — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:25:26 GMT

The rotary switch on the model 800 cordless rotary tool controls both the power on/off and the rotation speed. When I last put the tool away in the case, I must have bumped the switch just enough so that it was drawing power without spinning the chuck. The next time I went to use it the battery was completley dead and needed to be recharged. It would be much better if there was a seperate on/off switch.

Bruce

Cordless Dremel

Victor — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:38:42 GMT

How do I find brushes for this dremel? The part list has no listing of item

Model 800 Cordless Dremel

Victor — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 22:55:54 GMT

Should I feel a breeze from the vents at high spped?

Suggestion from a model builder: rotary tool speed

jtilley — Sat, 04 Apr 2009 11:34:48 GMT

I'm glad to have this opportunity to voice a comment about Dremel rotary tools that I've been thinking about for a long, long time.

My hobby is scale ship models, and I've been at it for more than fifty years. I won my first Dremel Moto-Tool as a prize in a contest in 1972, and I've had at least one Dremel product in my workshop ever since - rotary tools, attachments, a table saw, a scroll saw, etc., etc. I consider myself a Dremel fan.

Dremel rotary tools are first-rate products. I do, however, have one major reservation about them. Dremel professes to regard model builders as one of its target markets; if that's the case, the designers and marketers need to be aware of one big, overarching weakness from which the Moto-Tool suffers in the eyes of the modeler. Moto-Tools turn too fast.

The truth of the matter is that, for the purposes of the model builder working in wood and plastic, high speed is practically irrelevant. What matters is precision and accuracy. High speed, in many cases, is in fact a liability. At 5,000 rpm a Moto-Tool can drill a clean hole with a #75 drill bit in a piece of hardwood if the bit is brand new and perfectly sharp. If the bit is even slightly dull, it will burn the wood at that speed. And even if the bit is new, it's likely to melt styrene plastic (an increasingly popular material among modern modelers).

That Moto-Tool I won those many years ago was a single-speed model, and I practically drooled over it when I opened the box. When I got it home and tried using it, though, I discovered that it was practically worthless for my purposes. I then went to the hobby shop and, for the vast sum of about $15.00, bought a Dremel "Tabletop Speed Control." What a difference! With the tool plugged into the speed control, I could dial the speed down, literally, to zero. Then I could put the drill bit (or grinding tip, or router bit, or whatever) exactly where I wanted it on the workpiece and gradually ramp up the speed to whatever was appropriate to the job. Here's an example of the work I did with its help: http://www.hmsvictoryscalemodels.be/JohnTilleyHancock/index.html

I've still got two of those Tabletop Speed Controls; they're more than thirty years old now, and they still work perfectly. That's a good thing, because Dremel no longer makes that product. And the lowest speeds on the Moto-Tool models with built-in speed controls are too fast.

A few years ago I bought (from the Woodcraft woodworker supply company) a small rotary tool made by a German company called We-Cheer: http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=141061&FamilyID=3736 . It's the closest thing I've found yet to an ideal rotary tool for modelers. It's slightly fatter than a carpenter's pencil, has a thin, flexible cord running out the back, and accepts Dremel chucks. It has no speed control built in, but it works beautifully with my old Dremel Tabletop Speed Control. It doesn't have the robust, confidence-inspiring build quality of Dremel tools; time will tell how long it lasts. But I find myself reaching for the litte We-Cheer more frequently than the Moto-Tool that's hanging alongside it.

It seems that whenever Dremel introduces a new rotary tool the promotional literature concentrates the new product's high speed and high torque. Whenever I read such literature I emit a loud sigh and think to myself, "I wonder if they'll ever get the message." I understand that in many applications those are indeed important characteristics; I'm not suggesting that any of the existing Dremel rotary tools be discontinued. But if the company wants to appeal to model builders, it needs to consider designing a rotary tool for them. Such a tool would:

Be as small and light as possible - preferably lighter than the smallest of the current battery-powered models.

Have a speed range from zero to 1,000 rpm or thereabouts.

Have a thin, flexible cord (or be powered by batteries).

Have ball bearings (or extremely well-machined sleeve bearings).

Have a switch/speed adjustment control located within reach of the index finger.

Cost less than $50.00.

I suspect that if Dremel produced such a product, just about every ship, aircraft, railroad, and car modeling enthusiast would want one.

Thanks for reading.

Dremel Plunge Router 335-01

Curtis O. — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 01:47:20 GMT

I do think that Plunge router is a decent product, but it has many small issues that should be fixed or redesigned. First off I want to compliment the designers on the idea of having two depth stops, and the clear base. Suggested changes to current product are:

1) make sure that all router bits can be used on Every Dremel(supported) to the router-bit's maximum designed depth(deepest penetration and not less) without compromising how far you inster the bit in to the collet(saftey).

2)the depth guage is nearly useless as is because it doesnt reference from any point on a router bit. What is needed is a reference point that is zeroed at the tip of the routerbit not at the routers full extention (this is because the bit wont reach the base of the router at full extention and its hard to measure how far the tip of the router-bit is from the base. I recomend having the guage held in place by an adjusting screw on the top(plunging platform).

3) Most important fix is to make sure the depth stops stay in position while the machine is in use(including in use on material). The plastic markers have a horrible tendancy to rotate up and down eliminating the reference points that were just set(this means you cant go back and forth from one depth to the other). (just use a set screw to secure them in location.)

It would also be nice if the distance face were able to be put as close as possible to the bit without being cut.

Smokin' Dremel

DrivingMissDremel — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 17:45:47 GMT

Is the Dremel warrantied when you register it? I was using the EZ Lock metal cutters to cut the shank from a metal typewriter key and the Dremel started smokin' and smellin' - Now it doesn't work - Think the motor burned out? Is this common? And most importantly, is it under warranty? I don't have the money to buy a new one and use this to create jewelry for my income. Please help!!!!! Thanks!

Screw in brush covers(little plastic ones

outthnk — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 16:23:09 GMT

Anyone else have trouble with the little blue plastic covers for the brushes stripping out? I have a multi pro that this has happened too and I cannot find replacements anywhere locally.

Contour Sander conversion to Multi-Max option desired

Hal M. Hare — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 06:36:41 GMT

I was disappointed to discover that my Contour Sander cannot be updated to a Multi-Max tool. One would think that wouldn't be too difficult an accessory to adapt! and would increase the value of the basic tool lines.

hal.hare@sbcglobal.net

Flex shaft not working

Cardinal Flyer — Tue, 03 Mar 2009 19:38:52 GMT

Hi,

Just received a 400xpr today, works great. But the flex shaft doesn't operate. I followed all of the instructions, but the thing doesn't move. The motor spins great it just doesn't spin the flex shaft. Am I missing something ?

Dremel Ratchet and Bar Clamps

Grandaddy — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 15:20:48 GMT

I just read about Dremel clamps in an "About Woodworking" article. The article described some new Dremel Ratchet and Bar Clamps. I have consolidated and quoted the articles below:

"Dremel Ratchet and Bar Clamps

Tuesday February 24, 2009

Dremel, a name long synonymous with their famous rotary tool, has three new entries in the clamp market.

The 30mm model #2515 and 50mm model#2520 Ratchet Clamps are two different sizes of trigger-locking ratchet clamps. These could be used much like spring clamps, but with the advantage of having a locking mechanism.

Dremel Ratchet Clamps

The Bottom Line

Dremel, well-known for their line of Rotary Tools, is branching out into other woodworking accessories. In the Dremel 2515 and 2520, they have developed a pair of ratchet clamps which are well-suited to small woodworking projects.

The model 2515 (with a maximum 30-mm jaw opening) and model 2520 (with a 50-mm max opening) are strong, comfortable and easy to use. The soft grip handles and trigger lock make clamping and releasing quite easy.

Keep in mind, though, that even the larger model 2520 is probably too small to use in most woodworking applications, as the max jaw opening is a little less than two inches.

Pros

· Adjustable angle on jaws

· Trigger-lock mechanism easy to operate

· Soft-grip handles

· The 2515 is sold in pairs, where the 2520 is available individually

Cons

· The ratcheting mechanism was difficult to lock down tightly enough to hold in some cases

· Small clamps - even the larger 50-mm would be would be limited to small woodworking projects

Description

· For very small craft or household repair applications, the delicate 2515 clamps may be a good choice.

· The sturdier and larger 2520 clamp could be used in instances where a locking spring clamp would be desirable.

· The ratchet seemed to fall in-between detents in many cases. Considerable pressure was needed to reach the next detent.

Guide Review - Dremel Ratchet Clamps

The Dremel model 2520 and 2515 ratchet clamps are essentially the same clamp, although the 2520 is much larger and far more sturdy. The 2520 can take considerable clamping pressure, which was sometimes needed to get the jaws closed to a locking detent that would allow the clamp to hold the workpiece(s). The trigger lock and detent mechanism is metal, which should bode well for long-term use of the clamp.

On the other hand, the 2515 is, in a word, dainty. It would be well-suited to lightweight clamping applications where a small spring clamp might apply too much pressure to the workpiece. The trigger and detent mechanism on this model appears to be made of the same material from which the clamp is built (rather than metal on the 2520). However, for a clamp of this small size, the mechanism seems well-suited.

The design of the spring which opens the jaws on both models seems to be similar in style, although the spring on the smaller 2515 seems to be a bit weak. On one of the two test clamps the spring did not provide any appreciable tension when the jaws were completely opened.

Dremel Bar Clamps

Dremel Bar Clamp

The Bottom Line

Dremel's model 2505 bar clamp is another entry into the woodworking clamp market, along with their Dremel ratchet clamps.

The 2505 bar clamp is surprisingly strong for its diminutive size. The clamping mechanism holds strong, and the unit can be changed over to act as a spreader as well as a clamp.

The biggest drawback to this clamp is that the jaws maximum opening width is 4-1/4". This will reduce the usefulness of this clamp to only the smallest of woodworking projects.

Pros

· Jaws can be reversed to use as a spreader

· Relatively strong for such a small size

· Sold in packs of two clamps

Cons

· Having a maximum jaw opening of 4-1/4" this bar clamp is only appropriate for small jobs

· Clamp and release handles are behind the grip, rather than in front like most similar clamps

Description

· Clamp is a perfect size for crafts, hobbies and DIY projects.

· 110mm (4-1/2") maximum jaw opening width as a clamp, or 210mm (8-1/4") as a spreader.

· As opposed to their ratchet clamps, the bar clamp uses a precise variable clamping mechanism.

Guide Review - Dremel Bar Clamps

For crafts, hobby and do-it-yourself projects, the Dremel 2505 bar clamp is perfectly suited. It is strong, but the variable clamping mechanism allows the operator to apply varying levels of clamping pressure accurately.

The design is very similar to many much larger one-handed woodworking clamps, such as the Irwin Quick Grip woodworking clamps. The one major design difference when compared to these larger clamps is that Dremel chose to place the clamp and release handles on the back side of the grip, as opposed to the front side on the larger clamps offered by other companies. The motion seems a bit awkward at first, but since the clamping motion is done with the fingers and thumb, it soon becomes more comfortable.

Additionally, the 110mm model #2505 Dremel Bar Clamps are strong, variable locking bar clamps that can also be used as a 210mm max-width spreader.

These clamps are strong and seem to be well-built, but because of their small size, their uses are probably limited to hobbies, crafts and small do-it-yourself projects. "

The above is all I know about new products. I have not checked on the Dremel web site yet.

Bill

a connical shape sanding tool

tiredbear — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:29:09 GMT

I use the 1/4 inch & 1/2 inch, but there are times when a smaller tool is needed. And, sometimes the body of the Dremel gets in the way. With a cone shape sanding tool, the Dremel would be lifted or used at an angle.

xpr Tool box

MJW33897 — Sat, 07 Feb 2009 19:32:17 GMT

Is there any way to get the xpr tool box sepreatly?I cant find one online.I see another toolbox that dremel makes but the one for the xpr looks like what i would want.

SUPER CUSTOMER SERVICE & EXCHANGE! THANKS DREMEL!

ahouse4u — Fri, 30 Jan 2009 14:11:26 GMT

Wife & I are in mid senior years, have several rental properties, & both have carpal tunnel/joint/muscle issues. We do 99% of the work ourselves. We've been using Dremel tools for several years. Recently had problem with drill magnetic tool holder. We called 800#, spoke to a gracious knowledgeable curtous lady who said we'd have replacement in 2 days. On the 2nd day by noon, a package was at the door with New Driver + bits. Absolutely superior customer service!!!!! I didn't have to send in tool or repair shop to have it fixed, they send brand new one + shipping label to return my broken tool. Cost was $0.00. Much better than Craftsman, Makita. Will highly recommend under any circumstances. Thank you Dremel, your at the top of the list. We gave 4 sets as Christmas presents & have heard nothing but good things from users. Your doing everything right Dremel, don't change. Both wife & I grab a Dremel due to it's light weight & strong torque & dependability. We really appreciate the lightweight tools...keep making them!

| | | |

Did I push my dremel too hard?

Bobgspinball — Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:42:08 GMT

I have a 300 series Dremel, I bought a 231 router table and got the adapter from Dremel. I put on a #654 router bit and ran a soft piece of wood over the bit to cut a groove in the wood. I had the bit set about a half inch up. the groove I cut was about 7 inches long. I stoppped, turned off the Dremel than wanted to cut another groove. When I turned on the Dremel it did not start up. I unscrewed the caps to check the brushes, the springs and brushes will not come out. I think the brushes are burnt up. Did I push my Dremel too hard?

Thank you

mapco — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 13:12:58 GMT

I just want to thank Dremel for all there tools they have made. I have been using them for 50 yrs in my hobby of Model airplanes and never had a problem with any of them.My jig saw is 47yrs old and still work great.I used to sell lots of Dremel tools in the 80's as a sales rep for hobby distributors in Calif and never any problems with customers.

100 Series

mholmes — Mon, 29 Dec 2008 09:19:14 GMT

I just received the 100 Series for Christmas. The only issue I have is that I find it gets very warm on the hand when holding it like a "pencil" as recommended. ;)

New Dremel MulitMax

joe653 — Sat, 13 Dec 2008 01:19:06 GMT

I purchased the MultiMax this week and [b]what a tool![i][u][/u][/i][/b] :D I bought it mainly for the detail sander portion. This tool is a lot quieter than most sanders I've used and it removes material like a pro. It's going to be my main sander most likely. I've tested the other attachments and discovered that although they will cut through wood it doesn't do as good on hard woods. I had a heck of a time trying to cut through some Brazilian Ebony. The flush cutter works perfectly. Only one thing I'd try to change about this tool is the way you need to switch attachments. It takes a little time changing to the sanding attachment and to change to the cutting and s****ing isn't too bad. All you need to do is loosen the allen screw instead of completely taking it out for the sander. Also I thought it was a bit pricey for tool, $100.00 street price and I saw it go for more on the net. Lucky for me that Home Depot labeled the price incorrectly and I bought it for $49.00. A 50% mistaken mark down. They couldn't charge me the full price because there were 10 on the shelf all for the same $49.00 price. One of their employees messed up. Still I give it an 8 out of 10.

Shaft Lock

john689089 — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 12:52:37 GMT

I recently purchased a 10.8V cordless Model 800. Have been using it quite a bit with different grinding bits. Today after grinding on some nail heads for about 10 minutes, I stopped to change bits. When I tried to lock the shaft with the shaft lock button and loosen the collet nut, the shaft slipped out of the shaft lock and I cannot get the collet nut loose. No matter how hard I press and hold the shaft lock button, I can't keep the shaft from turning when I try to loosen the collet. The button that slips into the shaft detent seems to be stripped. Is there any way I can fix this?

Very Firm buffing wheel?

ibmacin — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 21:05:26 GMT

I had what I thought was a real hard polishing tool. It appeared to be made of a compressed fabric. It started out about 3/4 of an inch in diameter and about 3/8 thick. It was hard so that you could not bend it. I found that it would strip off old caulking from brick with out harming the brick. After about two hours of use it was gone so I went to the local Home Depot but they did not have one. Wal Mart and Lowes did not have it. I looked on Dremel's web site and it is not there. I would like to get more of these but I fear they are not made anymore because I can't find it anywhere.

Does my description ring a bell for anyone?

Please help!

Ibmacin

MultiPro 770 T2 Battery Attachment

mbrowning00 — Sun, 07 Sep 2008 07:02:01 GMT

I have a 770 T2 that has only been used twice because the battery will not stay engaged in the tool. Have there been an improvement for this design?

New Dremel User

Anniedownsouth — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 20:33:05 GMT

Does anyone know of classes for new users. I would like to either see a demonstration or take some classes in So. Florida.

Posting of Owner's Manual's

lsv8-00 — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 17:01:07 GMT

I have seen a number of posting where individuals, like myself, have misplaced a Dremel product owner's manual and locating a copy is a frustrating process. :w00t:

Flexlite w/magnifier 671

Beeber — Tue, 27 May 2008 09:11:52 GMT

Hi, I just went to amazon.com to purchase the flexlite w/magnifier and learned that it does not come w/the clip, as pictured. The reviewers thought that it came w/the clip and would not have purchased had they known. I like this attachment and would like to know if Dremel can supply a clip, even for a few more dollars,as shown in the display picture. This is my second post w/this question. Have no idea what happened to the first. Thanks

dremel plunge router attachment

adder70 — Sun, 25 May 2008 15:01:53 GMT

My issue with the Dremel plunge router is that it has a basic quality control issue. One of the nuts for the edge guide piece has no threads! No, they aren't stripped. The inside of the nut has a smooth surface!:angry:

Now I have to go all the way back to the store and buy a router. (I certainly don't want to buy yet another defective Dremel product, after all, gas is too expensive to keep going back to the store to replace cheap tools with pathetic quality control.) I can't understand why they don't have the factory worker at least test the nuts and bolts together. Come on, even with the dropping dollar, you can still get Chinese workers to spend an extra half hour on the product and it will only raise the price what, a dollar. I certainly would rather have paid $31 than pay $30 and have to go back to the store to get something else. I think someone at Dremel made a HORRIBLE call as to level of quality control.

I just hope other people have better luck getting Dremel products with hardware that works.

Major Safety Concern

LilBits — Sat, 26 Apr 2008 00:41:55 GMT

I have the 400XPR and the Stylus.

I switch between these two tools quite frequently and have lost count of the number of times I went to lock the shaft on the 400 thinking it was the stylus and having it power up on me, and vise-versa

See the attachment.

That was a very bad idea who ever designed these two tools. Its like switching the safety and the trigger on a hand gun

And while I am here, I think it would also be most helpful to put your suggested speed range on your accessories poster. It would be alot easier for us end users to see the bit and have a ball park operating speed.