OK to use cutting tool for a routing task?


OK to use cutting tool for a routing task?

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hoodremel
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****o,

Apologies if this has been covered -- I've searched but I didn't get any hits, at least not using the keywords I selected.

I am wondering if I might be able to use a cutting tool/bit (#561 I believe) in lieu of a routing bit in the following, perhaps unique, application.

I have a guitar with a control cavity that needs to be deepened by 1/8 inch.  I have bought the plunge router attachment for the Dremel, and a routing bit.  However, I just learned that the cavity is already too deep for the bit to reach the bottom.

I would like the bottom of the cavity to be *reasonably* smooth and neat, but it won't have to be perfect.  It will not be visible externally once I put the electronics and cover back on. 

I understand the cutting tool is meant to be able to cut wood, plus it's got a much longer shaft.  Therefore I am hoping this might be a good workaround.  On the other hand, I don't want to cause a disaster or unsave working situation!

Thanks in advance!

the Dremel Lady
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Might be a bit messy and is not much of a tip to use. I'd be carful about the aggressiveness of that bit. How big of a diameter is the cavity? Could you use the shaping wheel that is #801. Would have to special order it though.

TDL
hoodremel
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Thanks for your reply!

The control cavity is about 1 inch x 6 inch.  I'll check out that shaping wheel.

Talk soon

the Dremel Lady
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Doesn't sound like the shaping wheel will work as it is more than one inch in diameter.

How confident are you in free handing the material removal without a base. The router bits are hard to control, 561 is too, without a base on the Dremel, but you might be able to control a rounded tip high speed cutter or structured tooth tungsten carbide bit. These have served me well in relatively even removal for a relief carving. I used them on a flex shaft attachement and held it like a pen. Then use light passes that remove small amounts at a time. Go to a smaller ball or pointed tip to get into the corners.



Erika

TDL
hoodremel
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I'm not extremely experienced with the Dremel, so I doubt my free-hand is all that good.  On the other hand, this again will be covered and not visible, so it could withstand some mistakes.  I was hoping to keep it clean to keep the resale value of the guitar up, and just for purity (irrational) reasons.

So, do you think the cutter just won't cut it and should be avoided, or perhaps with some patients and care it might work?

hoodremel
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Forgot to mention -- do you think the cutting tool (561) would still be too uncontrollable when used along with the plunge router attachment?

I thought I might try this on a scratch piece of wood to see, with the only thing holding me back is that I'm thinking of returning the plunge router attachement if I don't get much confidence via the web that it might work.

Thanks again!

the Dremel Lady
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You could probably try it with the 561 as long as you have the router base on the tool, it just will take a fair amount of patience and not the first thing I'd try. Remember that the tip is not a drill bit though, it wants to cut on it's side so you might want to use a drill bit first to do a pilot hole if you can't angle the #561 bit into the work surface. Otherwise you are bound to burn the wood some and also the tip of the bit. Also, make sure you wrench tighten the bit well into the tool so it will not ride out since you are mainly just working 1/8" of the tip of the bit.

TDL
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Thanks for this!  Pilot holes make a lot of sense!

I might get some scratch wood and try this out over the weekend.

My internet search today suggests that there are a fair number of bits and uses for Dremel routing on guitars, however, it seems this particular task (deep routing of control cavities) might not be among them -- Seems the tasks requires bits with larger diameter shanks.

If I do the experiment I'll come back and report.

hoodremel
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A followup:

My experiment worked, and I'm likely to go ahead and try this on the guitar.

I used the 561 cutting bit to do the routing.  Like what was suggested, I used a drill bit to make a pilot hole first.  I worked slowly and patiently, taking multiple passes to eventually get to the depth I wanted, and was very happy with the results (the bottom surface of the cavity was nice and smooth.  I ended up cutting about 1/3 inch out of the s**** wood I worked with.

A concern about my experiment is that I used pine, obviously a soft wood.  I'll be cutting through alder when I work on the guitar.  I plan on taking it nice and easy, and taking small depths out at a time over multiple passes.

Having said all that, I was very happy with the ease with which the cutting tool cut through that pine. LIke a nife through butter, and while I can see how it might get out of control, with a steady hand and the router base it was fairly well behaved.

HooDremel

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BTW, I've noticed twice the message board has automatically edited my text in an apparent attept to prevent foul language.  I find it humorous and am not offended, but also wanted to make sure there's no ambiguity -- the words I used were a salutation and a word that means "chunk of throw-away lumber".  No foul language for me!

HooDremel



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